Indigo: How to achieve perfect dyes

from Gaia Gualtieri - 23/10/2013

Gaia Gualtieri

Indigo has always fascinated and “terrorized” many aspiring dyers. So we decided to dedicate a special segment to this dyeing process, because indigo, aside from being one of the most beloved colors, needs to be used in a special, ad hoc process.

It is important to remember that indigo is a direct dye and therefore does not require the use of a mordant. However, that doesn’t mean that you can start directly from the dyebath using the extract as is. Indigo extract must first be prepared by creating what technically would be defined as a mother tincture.

Here’s how it’s done...

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140 cm wide Silk Chiffon 3.5 - Raw Colors
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Natural Indigo - 75 g
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€ 30,08
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Mother-dye

Weigh the dry fibers (and/or the yarn and fabrics obtained by them).
Rinse them with a neutral soap.
Put your indigo in a 500 ml. can (preferably, iron) that can be closed with an airtight cap.
The amount of indigo dye needed for the preparation of the mother ranges from 2% (in order to obtain a light blue) to 5% (for a darker blue) according to the intensity of color that you wish to reach.
Fill 2/3 of the can with water and stir well to dissolve lumps if any.
Calculate the quantity of reducing agent based on the weight of the dye you are using for the reduction-oxidation process- caustic soda: 80% compared to the weight of dye; hydrosulphite: 80% compared to the weight of dye.
Add the caustic soda to the solution in the can and stir again. The reaction with the caustic soda will warm the solution.
Last, add the hydrosulphite and stir quickly.
Then close the can with your airtight cap and keep it in a bain-marie for 20/30 minutes and maintain a temperature of 55°C (131°F)

Dye bath with indigo (tub)

Pour the mixture obtained into a pot, filled with water beforehand (bath ratio 20/1) and raise the temperature to 131°F (55°C), not more.
Add 1 mg/L of hydrosulphite.
Put a lid on and let it sit for other 20 minutes.
The indigo bath is now ready and you can proceed to effective dyeing now.
Prepare a basin filled with warm water and two tablespoons of vinegar for rinsing the fiber after dyeing.
Soak your fiber (previously rinsed with neutral soap) in the dye bath and make sure it is completely submerged in the dye bath.
Do not shake the fiber excessively to avoid creating air bubbles. Let it sit for 5 minutes.
Quickly remove the fiber from the dye bath and open it up in the air: the yellow-greenish colour will quickly turn blue before your eyes.
At this point, rinse the fiber in the tub with warm water first to remove the colour residues and then in running cold water until the water comes out clean.
Leave the fiber to dry away from the direct sunlight.

Tip from the dyer: the bath should have the colour of olive oil for the whole duration of the dying process, if a shift towards blue should occur add 1g/l of soda and 1g/l of hyposulphite

If you liked this article maybe you would also enjoy Ecoprinting with Laura Dell'Erba - Fabrics of Animal Origin.

Indigo: How to achieve perfect dyes

Mother-dye

Dye bath with indigo (tub)

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